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NAME: |
Neal Dambra |
| TEAM: |
Masters |
| HOMETOWN: |
Missouri City, TX |
| PDGA #: |
200 |
| 2011 PDGA RATING: |
961 |
| BORN: |
1954 |
| STARTED IN DISC GOLF: |
1976 |
| day gig: |
Art Director / Writer / Illustrator |
| recent disc Cred: |
2nd, 2008 Golden State MPG6th, 2003 Worlds MPG1st, 2003 Waco NT MPG2nd, 2003 DGLO NT MPG1st, 2005 Waco MPG2nd, 2006 Skylands Classic MPG2nd, 2005 Texas States MPMTD for various local events and Texas State Disc Golf Championships |
| memorable disc golf moments: |
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Meeting a lot of really cool and dedicated players, TDs and volunteers. Playing Friday doubles with my son Kirk (PDGA #40200) at his first tournament. Playing disc golf at one of the Worlds Frisbee Championship Frisbee Rose Bowl events in the early 80's using an Ultimate disc and finishing in the top ten! Finding out how tough and fun the Grandmaster's division really is. Winning my first NT as a GM in Waco. Throwing five perfect drives in a row in the woods, in the finals, at Stockholm to hold onto a 1 stroke lead.
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| Neal's Disc Golf Tips |
To get a strong start to your disc golf skills, get a light disc and learn to throw it in the wind. Once you do that you will find throwing serious plastic much easier. Too many new players start out with discs that they are not ready for.
When you're ready to build more distance, think more of a low line drive with hyzer release that turns a little rather than the big anny overstable shot. That will come eventually, but it is not something that works on as many fairways as the line drive. Smooth release, be sure to turn the head with the shoulders and the back swing, don't overthrow...let the disc do some of the work.
Whenever you get a chance, always teach a new player how to grip a disc. Too many new players are not instructed about a proper grip until they have played a few months and someone finally notices they have their finger on the rim and their finger splayed underneath.
Coming back after A bad hole: Hey, it happens to everyone no matter how good you are or your equipment is. A bad hole. It's part of golf. If you botch a hole, I would advise backing off a bit on the next drive, especially if it has potential danger. There's nothing like focusing on a solid par to get your head back in the game.
Putting fundamentals: Okay, I didn't think I ever would have a right to, but I'm going to finally talk about putting. I now consider myself a decent putter. It took a long time to get there, and, in the end, it took me focusing on a set of, what I consider, fundamentals. Here they are: . Visualize the putt relative to the exact conditions. . Putt lower into the wind, and higher with the wind at your back . Aim small, miss small. Pick out and focus on a single link when putting short putts (>20). Your link may/should change depending on the wind relative to your putting style. . On medium length hyzer putts (35-50 ft) focus on the right side of the chains (right handers). Opposite for anny putts or lefties. Again, aim small, miss small. . Put more hyzer on your putt when putting directly into a head wind. If you miss it will usually leave you with an easier down wind putt for the come backer. . When putting in a cross wind, always keep the wind on TOP of your disc. Don't expose the bottom to the wind because any disc can be turned into a sail. . Putt as flat as possible when putting downwind in a heavy breeze so you don't expose bottom of disc to the wind. . Go elbow directly to fingers eliminating as much movement as possible from your wrist. This will reduce yanks to the right or left. . Slow back pull and always use the legs a bit when coming forward...even on short putts. . Make release point directly in line with shoulder so you always know where your release point is relative your body position . Try to remember all by going through a mental check list as conditions require. In general, try to focus and make every putt, even gimmees and during your most casual rounds, and practice on baskets at varying elevations. I hope these fundamentals help you. They have definitely helped me.
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COURSES YOU SHOULD PLAY: |
| Course |
Comments |
the LINKS at Quail Valley Missouri City, TX |
One minute from the house so I often get a call to come out and play with different folks. Kinda open with several configs, 15 of the holes involve water OB which keeps you focused. |
Burns Park N Little Rock, AR |
My favorite wooded two courses. Most fairway lines are well defined unlike many wooded courses where it is throw and pray. Cool old school park too...time warp. |
JARVA Stockholm, SWE |
Wow, an amazing disc golf complex on a fantastic piece of land with a great variety of shots and distances. Great views but be ready to climb some hills. |
Keriakes Bowling Green, KY |
Lots of shot variety. I like the trees there, fair but punishing if you mix it up with them. Very clean. Love the dual tee. |
Shawshank Huntsville, TX |
Best private property course. Takes several serious go throughs before you get the hang of it. Gets better every year with constant improvements to infrastructure.
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| In The Disc Golf Bag: Drivers |
| Disc |
Comments |
ESP and Z Nuke (170 gm)
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Goes consistently farther than anything I have ever thrown. An instant game changer. I carry a new Z and a broken in ESP for the slight stability differences.
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ESP Force (168 gm) |
When I have to go long and be sure to end up left, it's the ESP Force every time. You can (should) tug on it pretty hard and it will still come back for you. |
Z GLO Stalker (174 gm) |
Accuracy of a mid range with the distance of a driver with a more predictable finish than most drivers. Great for normally mid range approach shots where the stance may preclude a normal run up. |
ESP Surge (168 gm) |
The Surge is my L to R disc, AND also my stand up straight flyer. Released low with hyzer, even into a breeze, it will stand up and fly straight, and with great distance. Don't overthrow it...it wants to do the work for you...just snap it smoothly on the correct release angle relative to conditions. I carry two Surges with me (one is a Doss model which I really, really like) and am expecting to use them more and more as I improve my technique with them. |
ESP Predator (168 gm) |
Mr. Dependable...I use this disc for all 'standard' R to L drives. These are throws where I just want to throw the disc with a flat, or slightly hyzer, release without trying to tool it. |
FLX Predator (172 gm) |
Incredibly overstable. I rarely throw it for drives, but it's the one for low long R to L approach shots. I'm talkin' 5 feet off the ground, skipping to the basket. Very predictable when you trust the release... even into a strong wind. I also use it for serious spike hyzers. Don't leave home without it. |
FLX and ESP Avenger SS (168-170)
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The FLX is the driver that I use whenever I need to have total control of my drive, like tight lines or woodsy holes. My straightest driver. Very controllable right to left flight if thrown properly. Also serves as my roller.
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Glide (165 gm) |
My favorite "get out of trouble" sidearm disc. Holds the line you put it on and gets to the target with minimal effort. I don't use it a lot but when i need it I'm glad it's in my bag. |
D Eclipse (180 gm) |
This is an old school disc that I have learned to really enjoy for shorter L to R drives. Slower than a Glide and accordingly more predictable. I use it for short rollers occasionally. |
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| In The Disc Golf Bag: Midrange |
| Disc |
Comments |
Z Hornet (max wt) |
Wow, the disc I have been waiting for! Super stable but fast for a midrange with control and predictability. Has cut down my Drone's PT but they are side by side in the bag. |
FLX Drone (175 gm) |
Absolutely essential disc for windy conditions. I use it for short drives and long approach shots when I want to keep it low but get serious R to L turn. |
Z Buzzz SS (177 gm) |
The straightest flyer in my bag. Even handles headwind well when released at an appropriate angle. Anytime I see a straight shot around 250 feet I go to the Buzzz SS. |
FLX Buzzz (170+ gm) |
Just as advertised: a great midrange driver. It is turning into my bread and butter short straight hole driver. Little end flight action makes it good for narrow fairways where a full driver may dive into the woods. It usually gets lift and glide adding to the distance. Is stable enough for most conditions but also can be turned when necessary in a predicable way. |
ESP Wasp (max wt) |
I needed something I was comfortable with for smooth hyzer upshots or medium length drives into the wind. Really a great disc for tweener stability between my Buzz and Drone. It is in the bag for good now. |
ESP Comet (max wt) |
Ideal for L to R long approaches or 300-325 drives. Release it with some hyzer angle and watch it stand up and turn. Really fun the throw and such a smooth finish. |
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| In The Disc Golf Bag: Putt and Approach |
| Disc |
Comments |
FLX Challenger (173 gm) |
I carry two of the CryZtal versions for putting and for upshots. Great flight characteristics and consistency. These are hard to come by so if you see one available let me know. |
X Putt'r (max weight) |
This is my get out of trouble sidearm roller disc and I often use it for definitive L to R putts. As a sidearm roller I like its understable attributes as I can depend on it going smoothly R to L at very predictable distances. I have gotten out of more trouble with this disc than any other and have saved many a stroke with this particular 'trick' shot. I have practiced the shot with dozens of other discs and the X Putt'r is the best by far. Best used in lower wind conditions. |
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